03 June 2017

Summer Makeup Tips From Stephan Ulvund Øien, Isadora International Makeup Artist

Stephan Ulvund Oien Isadora Makeup Artist

I learned more in half an hour with Stephan than from any other makeup artist, ever. I don’t think I’ve laughed more, or been scolded as often, in a 30 minute period. With his signature humour and frankness, he debunked commonly held beauty myths that I've long held as gospel – and shared his favourite tools and techniques for the two biggest beauty obsessions of our time: brows and contouring.

Isadora Sculpting Palette
Isadora's excellent Face Sculpting Palette
We’re told so often to look for a matte contour that it took me by surprise when Stephan advised us to look for some subtle pearl. Matte can look unnatural, he told us, especially in the sunshine. A little shimmer makes it look less stark beside your highlight, and will also help the powder to blend. When I’d picked my jaw up from the floor, I realised this made sense – my favourite contour powder* is Charlotte Tilbury’s Filmstar Bronze and Glow, which contains a little bit of shimmer. “I love Charlotte”, Stephan murmurs approvingly. “She's always honest.”
Isadora Summer 2015 Makeup Collection
Bottom right: my post-Stephan-makeover selfie
No sooner do I get over that news but there's another contour related bombshell thrown our way.
BROW CONTOURING IS THE NEXT BIG THING. This sounds complicated but mostly involves, as far as I can gather, tracing around the brows with concealer after you’ve filled them in. It gives a clean and uplifting effect. The NYX Wonder Pencil works well for this; I’d love Isadora to bring out a similar product. Their Colour Correcting Concealer, in the meantime, is excellent on blemishes and dark circles.

And you know that whole deal about ‘brows should be sisters, not twins’? Apparently, that’s just a good excuse for when you feck up. Symmetry is tricky, and we might not achieve it, but we should try to get things looking as even as we can.

Isadora Sculpting Palette

Let’s see, what else…oh yes, colour! Massive for summer (that's Isadora's summer shadow palette in the collage above) - and the key to the trend? Anchor colour eyeshadows with plenty of black liner and mascara. Do this and anyone can wear colour, at any age – and the same with glitter. Don’t listen if you’re told not to use shimmery shadows beyond a certain age; you just need to be careful about placement. Pat on a little shimmer over a matte shadow and it will look great.

And if you’re worried that rimming your eyes in black will actually make them look smaller – well, don’t. It won’t, as long as you take the time to blend and smudge in the liner. Harsh lines are not our friends.

Are you new to Isadora? Check out some of my favourites here and here, or see where to find the brand in Ireland. 

*But the Isadora Face Sculptor palette comes close. Pinky swear!

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